Burgos to Hontanas and on to Castrojerez

Weather is forecast for 33 degrees today and, once on the wide open expanses of the Meseta, there will be little shade from the elements. I will stay healthy and hydrated.

This small chapel marks the beginning of the Meseta

As far as the eye can see........

There is something very hypnotic and beautiful about the Maseta. One walks forward, placing one foot in front of the other. That's all one has to do. Stay in the moment and forget that refreshing ice-cold beer at days-end.

Convento de San Anton

Woman and her dog

Approaching Castrojerez

That's nice - walking with the family pet all the way from France to Santiago de Compostela.

"How is your dog enjoying the walk?"

"At day's end, she is like me. She's shattered."

"Are you allowed to stay in Refugios along the way?"

"Not always. I've had to sleep out in the countryside from time to time."

I plan to walk 32 kilometres today and so will start  my journey at 6.00 a.m. so as to avoid the mid-day sun. I am trying to buck the trend made famous by Noel Coward and his song: "Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun" Trouble is that the Refugio where I have been staying is under lockdown until 6.30 a.m, so I am late starting. I will have a light breakfast after walking my first 10 kilometers.

I come to the unprepossessing town of Tardajos and at a junction in the road, just before the beginning of the Meseta, there is a large stone fountain for pilgrims to refill water bottles. A couple of Italian men are pressing on the brass button to start the flow of water but with no result. Jokingly, I go up to them, issue a blessing in my best Latin: "Introibo ad altare dei; ad deum qui letificat, juventutum meam," take a step forward and tap the fountain with my walking stick. To my surprise and theirs, the water starts to flow. My secret is that I had inadvertently trod on a small disc-shaped foot release peddle embedded in the concrete. That, in conjunction with the brass button, enabled the water to flow. "Laus tibi Christi!"

Once on the flat plains of the Meseta there is nobody around and I need to change the photo card on my camera. There seems to be data on the new card and, on closer examination, it is of my girlfriend, Patricia, playing piano and singing "Danny Boy" at a concert in Cleveland. It is a slow and pensive version of this song and, in combination with the solitude of the wide open plains, brings me to tears. Patricia, I know you are travelling with me.

Walking alone allows me to go to that place of great joy and gratitude for all the things that I have in my life. Despite the extreme heat, my walk is brilliantly meditative and I feel euphorically lucky to be alive.

I haven´t entirely avoided walking in the mid-day sun and arrive in Hontanas at 2.30 p.m. I join Alan, Sophie and a group of Irish people for dinner and drinks. They don;t like to stay in Refugios but prefer the comfort and privacy of hotels.

The dormitory accommodation of most Refugios. Lower bunks are much in demand

I will walk to Castrojerez in the morning, a mere 10 kilometres and enjoy this small town for the whole day. I have the time and the inclination to rest well before continuing my way on the Meseta. This is not a competition, I have only myself to please and I will determine my own journey.

A day in Burgos

I am pleased not to be walking today and can wander the streets of this city, visit the Gothic cathedral and  relax. Meanwhile, I watch as the walking wounded arrive from outside the city gates. Both young and old - fit and flabby. Discomfort attaches to most of them. That was me five years ago with bad shin splints. It was like an advertisement for Voltaren. I am still ecstatically happy that my body is holding up so well and that I don't even have a blister. Why is that? Partly, it can be explained by my determination to set my own pace on this journey. I am also paying attention to the most appropriate stretches for the muscles. Strengthening of the back muscles of the lower legs and also attention to hip flexors has left me in good form. Can others learn from me? Only if they ask. Otherwise, the advice falls on deaf ears.

Meanwhile, I am staying an extra day in Burgos to rest. I am not in a hurry to reach Santiago de Compostela just as long as I am there in time for my plane back to London on June 4th. That is my only deadline and I think I have ample time to complete my journey. Refugios on the Camino allow only for a stay of one day unless there are serious medical reasons for not doing so. Therefore, I am staying the extra day at a hotel.

With Irishman, Alan sharing a beer and tapas

View from my hotel from just outside the City walls

Wait till I hold my stomach in!

Belorado, San Juan de Ortega and on to Burgos

This Refugio has a swimming pool - an unusual luxury but perfect for a good hot day.

Recreation area at the Refugio

Just outside Belorado on my way to San Juan

My shadow is still leading the way

It says "learn Spanish, and don´t drink the water." Well, sort of.

I am still letting myself be annoyed by matters technical related to posting this blog. Since there seems to be a shortage of internet cafes, I have found that the best solution is to find a local library. However, the one in Burgos has no capability to download either the blog itself or photos. A member of Security at the library tells me that the answer to my problem is to find a device that will enable me to attach my photo card to almost any computer. Remarkably I understand his directions in Spanish perfectly of what he is describing and where to find the required hardware. At the computer store, I buy the device and set off with new instruction on where to find the only internet cafe in Burgos.

Since Belorado, I am now happily on my own as Katleen has found wings of her own. No more looking after the wounded.

Temperatures now seem to be consistently between 28 and 30 degrees. From now on I will set off on my journey for the day at 6 a.m. and cover a good distance before the sun is at its zenith. I am still feeling well and fit with no physical problems.

This Refugio in Belorado has a swimming pool and very pleasant outdoor recreational area. On arrival, my first priority is to take off walking boots, take a shower and find some refreshments. The restaurant has a good selection of  tapas and the one that appeals to me today is the Pimientos de Gernika. These are little peppers that have been sauteed and then lightly dusted in salt.

I order a Pernod and, instead of being served the usual one ounce serving, someone´s inexperience has resulted in me being served four times that amount.

San Juan de Ortega

Alan and Sophie - our first meeting

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

I am now up to date with my blog as far as the sequence of my journey. That is, of course, with the exception of my photos.

If anyone doubts that I am not really walking the Camino, because, who in their right mind would subject themselves to this, there is proof of sorts. From yesterday´s sun and high temperature, I have a rather hot burning from the sun on my left arm. That would suggest that I am walking westward because at midday that is when the sun is at its hottest. I wonder how it will be when I cross the Meseta plains. That is 10 days of walking and for much of this there is very little cover from the elements. When I walked five years ago, the temperatures were the exact opposite and I was often covered up with fleece jackets. Despite the heat, I welcome the increased temperatures.

Today, however, is a slightly different story. Today´s journey will be  22 kilometers with a gradually increasing climb. It is not nearly so hot, but there is a rather cold and strong headwind trying rather effectively to blow me off course. On the Camino, one learns to accept what one is offered by the elements. What other choice is there?

I am again walking with Katleen and I think she is happy to have my reassurance and endorsement of her personal journey. I still find it difficult to let go of my caretaker role. I am hoping that this will resolve soon because I really only want to be responsible for myself on this journey. I am not here to fix anyone physically or mentally.

As far as the eye can see.....and then more

I would like this to be me leaning against a tree

576 Kilometers to go in a silly hat - rather that than a Tilly Hat

Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Practical matters drying in the sun

Logrono to Najera

Camino de Santiago sign embedded in the walk

The church in Navarrete 

On the outskirts of the City, I am joined by a thirty-year-old German woman and we walk along together for the whole day. Her name is Katleen and she is from a small community outside of Cologne. Usually when you walk with someone for a whole day, it is very hard not to get into some very intense discussion. She tells me that this is the first time that she had really left the security of her home life. She tells me that since her teenage years she had only dated black men and that initially she had met with much resistance from her family.

As we walk, she keeps asking out loud how she could possibly have agreed to make such a strenuous walk across the top of Spain. As the temperature heats up to almost 30 degrees, along with our conversations about life, our path, and our own histories she moves between a gamut of emotions from laughter to tears. This is what the Camino does to you and again is an example of how easily the physical can affect the emotions.

She tells me that she is happy to have been able to walk with me and thanks me for my "spiritual guidance." That´s funny because I feel that this is more an example of the blind leading the blind. Besides, all I want to do is listen and not direct her path. I barely know where I am going myself. However, I thank her for the compliment.

Accommodation is co-educational and we end up sharing a bed together - in the strictly non-biblical sense, that is! This Refugio has more than one hundred beds in one large room and the extreme heat makes sleeping difficult.

Too much bread.........and wine?

Rioja vineyards

River over Najera